Bamako Blues & Meditations

What continues to suprise me about Africa is the racism.

Youd think after almost 5 years knocking round the continent, it shouldnt. Afterall its not strange. The different has always been suspicious, one need only look as far as 'home', wherever that might be....be it Europe, the US, China, Japan or anywhere in between....

But here what is odd about it is Africa's defination of the term.

They are quick to play the racist card if, say, its you 'evil colonising white person' who is trying to brush off a guide. In the same breath that they tell you that there is no racism in Africa and follow this statement by a dire warning issued in a low voice to never to trust a Toubou as far as you can throw him and that the Bambara's are...well, we all know what the Bambaras are....!

Try to point out that perhaps these sentiments can be classified as racist as well and you hit a wall. Try pointing out that perhaps their attitude to white people is racist as well and that goes down like a lump of lead. Infact it doesnt even do that....it is sucha radical idea, that they just dont get it.

'You cant understand what it means to be African because your skin is white' is something you hear again and again. Today, finally, I lost my temper and asked said ignoramous if it is really skin that makes an African or European or American ....Are there no white africans or black Europeans, errrr....black Americans...anyone?

Apparently not. ....errrr of course there are no black europeans (according to him....you could have decieved me) and there are no white africans either.....

Jeese, just how stupid can a person be. I can hear a chorus of white Zimbabweans, Kenyans, S.Africans, Armenian-Ethiopians and Lebanese-Liberian disagreeing with him..

Not to mention black Americans...... Ive just discovered that apparently they are a figment of my overactive immagination, eeeeek, but dont you dare tell them that in the States! Id be lynched.

And also dont even try to point out that this point of view might be in anyway, shape of form, be considered errrr perhaps slightly....discriminatory....GOD FORBID! ....

That really doesnt wash, because African (black africans I hasten to add) are never, EVER, racist.....but.....caerful now, 'dont trust the Bambaras , between you and me we all know they are thieves.....'

Oooooof it can be quite wearing sometimes.

I wont even go into the more ridiculous aspects of it, such as not being able to apply for Liberian or Ghanaian citizenship if you are not of African desent. Yup, Its in the constitution guys.....

Can you imagine if Sarkozy put through a bill that said that only nice, squeaky bright white kids with blues eyes need apply for French citizenship! It might be Sarkozy's dream but I think even he would think twice about it and African nations would be up in arms....but not in Africa mate!

But I move on...

My next meditation is on the humble Plastic Kettle...

??!!?? I hear you say. Indeed, a seemingly useless contraption to us Europeansn is the West African accessory par excellence.

You dont really think, like I did, that kettles can only be used to boil water in. EuEu, youve got it all wrong!

The plastic Kettle, preferably in its candycane striped form, is used for a variety of things...portable toilet paper, thermos flask, watering plants/sheep/kids (delete where appropriate) .....and remains the essential aboloution kit of every God-fearing Muslim.

You see armies of people wandering through town clutching theirs to their chests and no self-respecting W.African would ever dream of travelling without one. Afterall, you may not find them in barbarous countries, and frankly in Europe, they would be right!

Ai, where would W.Africa be without it. More than the wooden mask it seems to be an definative symbol of the region.... And where would the Chinese be without that great African export of theirs. I suspect that the Chinese economy in W. Africa floats on the plastic Kettles.

As for where we are....well, we've been in Bamako for a week now...making an indepth study on the uses and abuses of the plastic kettle....not quite but almost.

Its been a LONG week. I have to leave for a flying visit to Jerusalem for work this evening so we've been held a bit hostage. The Pekin is here for any extra three days whilst i get to eat croissants in Paris tomorrow morning and revel under hot water in Jerusalem in the evening. I feel for him (honest, guv)... but Ive bribed him to wait with promises of stacks of cheese....vache qui rit, anyone :)

In my last mail I ended with 'go elsewhere' and, franchement, the sentiment stands, despite a pleasant 2 days hiking through Dogon Country.

Yep, we did go in the end. BUT GUIDELESS and YES, it is possible, contrary to what they would have you think. From there we had a hasslesome (plus ca change!) journey to Bamako via Segou and now we are here. Phew. And leaving for Senegal when i get back.

Bamako is errr...kind of calm, but on the pestering front only, under any other front its a barrage of chaos, noise, pollution and flying mud. Charming.

I should launch into lyrical verses of praise for the beauties of Dogon Country and perhaps at some stage I will be at the moment its the snazzle of Bamako; the gigantic clusters of candy-striped plastic kettles for sale and the puzzle of the (black) African defination of 'racism' which comes to mind.

I leave the lyricism for later.

Ciao Amigos and 'hasta la vista, baby!' XXX